• If the soil compacts or becomes a sticky ball, it is mostly clay.
• If the soil doesn’t ball up at all and feels gritty, it is sandy.
• If the soil forms a compact ball but feels silky smooth like talcum powder, it is silt.
• If the soil forms a loose, crumbly ball that falls apart easily, it is loam.

• Dark soil tends to be higher in organic matter as compared to lighter colored soil
• A brown-red color usually indicates adequate air and good drainage.
• A blue-green or gray soil color is sometimes a sign that the soil is continuously wet (this is never a good situation for a garden setting).
• Yellow soil indicates imperfectly drained soil.
• Mottling or streaking of colors is usually a sign of seasonal or periodic drainage problems.
  

• Planting areas should only be 3 to 4 feet wide or else a pathway needs to separate the area. This is the width most people can reach half way across comfortably from either side.

Minimum Effort Ornamentals

By Stephanie Mehlenbacher, Community Educator, and
Bill Plummer, Master Gardener in training

Low maintenance plantings are in vogue these days. As homeowners' lives become more and more hectic, the desire to plant trees and shrubs that require minimal care is increased. Fortunately, there are many available ornamentals that are not troubled by a huge pest complex, and that do appear pleasing with little care. However, a little planning in advance is still necessary for developing an attractive planting that is likely to last for many years. Even the easiest-to-care-for ornamentals still have basic needs that must be met before they will thrive. Therefore, matching the site limitations or opportunities to the plants' requirements will go far toward achieving "low maintenance" status. Before you can make the best choice, you need to assess your site, both above and below ground.
The following information will help you to assess your site before choosing the best plants for the location you have in mind. Examples of plants are given, but the resources at the end will provide you with more in-depth lists of recommended ornamentals.
Below-Ground Considerations
Restricted Rooting Space. Are there underground obstacles to consider? Do you see noticeable compaction near driveways and sidewalks? This potential restriction of the rooting zone very much limits the amount of water, nutrients, and oxygen available to the plant. The addition of organic matter will provide more suitable soil conditions for growing annuals and perennials. Drought tolerant trees such as Japanese Tree Lilac (Syringa reticulata) do reasonably well in compacted soils. However, since roots typically grow no deeper than three feet and can spread to two or three times beyond the dripline, a large space should be allowed before planting.
Soil Texture. What is the texture of your soil? Is it light, dry and sandy, or is it a heavy, clay soil that tends to take a long time to drain? Perhaps you're fortunate, and have a well-drained loamy soil. This important piece of information will help you to select ornamentals that are well-adapted to your soil conditions. While some are tolerant of a wide range of conditions, others perform best in more specific locations. For example, the American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana) is a small tree worthy of planting, and although it will tolerate some intermittent drought, it prefers moist, shaded soils.
Soil pH. The pH is a measure of how acid or alkaline the soil is; a simple pH test can determine your site's characteristics. Most urban soils have a high pH (nearer to neutral or more alkaline in nature) due to the limestone containing materials in the street environment; rural and suburban soils vary greatly throughout the state. The Hedge Maple (Acer campestre), Thornless Hawthorn 'Ohio Pioneer' (Crataegus punctata inermis 'Ohio Pioneer') and Swedish Mountain Ash (Sorbus intermedia) are all examples of low maintenance small trees that will tolerate a high pH soil. Tallhedge (Rhamnus frangula) is an upright shrub that will tolerate alkaline soil.
Drainage. Poor drainage due to compaction, underground obstacles, or the inherent nature of the soil can easily be determined before you make the wrong selection. Place an open-ended coffee can where you want to plant; pour water in and observe the time it takes to drain. If the water hasn't drained at least one inch in an hour, you may want to modify the drainage in the area by using raised beds or supplemental drains, or choose species that can tolerate "wet feet." The London Planetree (Platanus x acerifolia) is an example of a tall (70-100 ft.) tree which can tolerate either wet or dry soil. Astilbe (Astilbe species) is a perennial that will tolerate moist sites.
Road Salt. Many homeowners are unpleasantly surprised to discover that some of their favorite roadside trees, such as the Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum) and Red Maple (A. rubrum) are actually very sensitive to salt injury. On the other hand, Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) and Callery Pear (Pyrus calleryana) can tolerate salt. In an area of high road salt or sidewalk salt applications, appropriate species can be planted to minimize damage later on.
Above-Ground Considerations
USDA Hardiness Zones. All trees chosen for your planting should be cold hardy. Areas near large lakes and oceans (e.g., the Finger Lakes, Ontario, Erie, Long Island) tend to be somewhat buffered from severe temperatures, while urban environments often fluctuate more in temperature due to heat from buildings. Buildings in cities often provide some shelter from drying winds; plants in containers are more susceptible to cold winter temperatures than those in the ground. If this seems confusing, a good rule of thumb is to choose plants that conform to your zone or lower (colder temperatures). There is a USDA Hardiness zone map in the Recommended Urban Trees publication listed in the resource section.
Exposure. Take a close look at how much exposure to wind your site receives. Is it protected from winds? Excessively windy sites will often place stress on plants with large leaves, which leads to unsightly leaf tatter. Also, plants in these sites may need supplemental watering so they do not dry out as quickly. Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) is a medium to large tree which is quite wind resistant.
Think about exposure to light as well. Shady sites determined by the sun and shade patterns around buildings, as well as nearby trees, may limit the choice of plants. Most trees and shrubs require full sun, but a few such as Katsura Tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) tolerate partial shade. Bleeding Heart (Dicentra species) is a perennial that will do well in partial shade.
Building Set-Back, Overhead Wires. The presence of physical barriers to plant growth above ground, such as a narrow building set back from the street and/or overhead wires, requires the choice of a tree or shrub which will not interfere with these structures. Columnar trees or those with low mature heights (less that 30 feet) can be used in these situations. There are many small trees and shrubs to choose from (see resource list at the end of this fact sheet); an example of a columnar tree is Princeton Sentry Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba 'Princeton Sentry').
Surfaces that Surround Buildings. Concrete, asphalt, car tops, mirrored building surfaces, etc., increase the reflected and irradiated heat load on a tree, which can cause it to heat up and lose water from its leaves at a faster rate than normal. Drought resistant plants should always be selected in those circumstances. A good example of a drought tolerant tree is the Yellow Chestnut Oak (Quercus muehlenbergii). Coneflower (Rudbeckia speciosa) is a perennial that will tolerate dry, hot conditions.

Source: Cornell Gardening Resources: Ecogardening Factsheet #11
Prepared by Nina Bassuk, Marcia Eames-Sheavely, and Robert Kozlowski

A tisket, a tasket, look at all the vegetables in my basket!

By Mary Lisi, Steuben County Master Gardener

This month’s article has been written by Mary Lisi, a Master Gardener in Steuben County. She enjoys gardening, and vegetable gardening in particular. Mary has been a gardener for years and has completed a 12-week training course in order to become a Master Gardener. The Steuben County Master Gardeners are a volunteer group. The group helps disburse unbiased, research-based knowledge about gardening and garden pests. We are available all season to help answer questions about your yard and garden. Call 607-664-2307 or visit us Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10 a.m. to noon. In the county office building in Bath.

This is the time of year when those of us who like to plant vegetable gardens are the busiest and the most excited. Perhaps this year you’re going to try planting a vegetable you’ve never grown before or planting a new variety of an old favorite. By now you’ve scoured all the seed catalogs, visited your favorite garden center, and prepared your soil. Now the work begins.

Start with a plan
It’s important to begin with a plan. This is something you can do on a rainy day or while you’re waiting for the soil to dry out a bit. Determine through the information on seed packets how much room each vegetable will need. Draw a diagram of where each vegetable will go. Plan to sow taller vegetables where they won’t be shading lower growing plants. This will depend on where your garden is located in relation to the sun. You may also want to keep in mind that some vegetables do better when planted next to a good companion vegetable. For example, corn does well when planted near potatoes, beans, or vine crops but not so well when planted next to tomatoes. Two good books for information about companion planting are Carrots Love Tomatoes by Louise Riotte and The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible by Edward C. Smith.

Hopefully a couple months ago you planted your cool weather crops such as spinach and lettuce and are already enjoying this bounty. June isn’t a good time to plant these cool weather crops as they don’t do well in the summer heat. You could, however, try planting some of these vegetables later in the summer for a fall harvest. Cool weather crops can also be planted in the shade between rows of corn or tomato plants. Now that frosty mornings are a thing of the past, most other vegetables can be planted now assuming the soil is warm enough. A soil temperature between 60 and 70 degrees is usually reached a couple weeks after the last frost and is ideal for vegetable seeds and plants. Black plastic can be put down to speed up the warming process if necessary. This is especially important for vine crops such as cucumbers, squashes, and melons. To warm small areas, black or brown plastic trash bags work well. Just weight them down with soil or stones around the edges.

Enjoying the Bounty – Too Much?
With all the excitement of a new gardening season, you might be one of those who tend to plant too much of a certain vegetable. You may be the gardener who is begging the neighbors sometime in late summer to, “Please take another zucchini and how about some Swiss chard? Cucumbers? Tomatoes?”. Try to estimate how much of each type of vegetable your family will consume or that you will preserve through freezing or canning for the winter months. It is also a good idea to plant some of your favorites such as string beans or sweet corn in succession. Simply replant the same vegetable a week or two after the first planting or plant different varieties of the same vegetable that will mature at different times.

Taking care of the growing plants
Now that everything’s up and growing it’s time to focus on keeping the vegetable plants happy and healthy. As with lawns, your garden will need about an inch of water a week. If “mother nature” isn’t providing this water, it becomes your job. During dry spells give your garden a good, thorough soaking once or twice a week. This is better than a daily light watering that won’t get water to the deep roots where it’s needed. Mulching around most plants will help hold moisture in the soil as well as control weeds. It also provides a barrier that keeps unwelcome critters that live in the soil away from the plant.

If you’re not planting in raised beds, which are ideal for drainage and access, you might also consider mulching between rows. Wood chips, newspaper, grass clippings, and even wood planks will again keep weeds under control and prevent soil compaction. Also consider planting marigolds and/or nasturtiums in vacant areas of the garden. These flowers repel several harmful pests. As a bonus, nasturtium flowers are a spicy addition to a salad or make an interesting and edible garnish.

You don’t have enough land to grow vegetables?
Container gardening is a great alternative to a vegetable garden. If you don’t care to weed or are restricted on space, you do have options! Some vegetables grow very well in containers. Obviously there are patio tomatoes that will grow well in a container, but you are not limited just to these. Other vegetables that do well in containers include peppers, eggplant, cauliflower, beans, onions, and cucumbers just to name a few. When considering container gardening, you must remember the size of the mature plant in relation to the container size. Choose accordingly. Also make sure the container itself has a drainage hole so that the roots of your vegetable do not become water logged. You should also choose the soil wisely when container gardening. Loose, porous soils works best, but remember that it will dry fast so watering may need to be done more frequently. Another option is to build a raised bed. This can be done with lumber (make sure not to use pressure treated lumber), cement blocks, or whatever your imagination can create! The same requirements as container gardening apply here.

Do you have more questions?
These are just a few tips for a successful vegetable garden. More information on the requirements of the most popular vegetables can be found on the Cornell Cooperative Extension website www.putknowledgetowork.com . Click on Community Horticulture and then on Vegetable Growing Guides. Also, Cornell University has a website that rates vegetable varieties. Find it at www.vegvariety.cce.cornell.edu. You can call us Tuesday or Thursday through October between 10 and noon at 607-664-2307. We would love to hear from you! Have fun with your vegetable garden, be amazed at what one little seed can produce, and enjoy the wonderful, fresh taste of produce right from your own garden!

 Strawberries

• June bearing strawberries produce a crop during a two-to-three week period in the spring. June bearers produce flowers, fruit and runners. They are classified into early, mid-season and late varieties.
• Everbearing strawberries produce three periods of flowers and fruit during the spring, summer and fall. Everbearers do not produce many runners.
• Day neutral strawberries will produce fruit throughout the growing season. These strawberries produce just a few runners.

• The Matted Row System is the best for growing June bearing cultivars. In this system, the strawberry plants should be set 18 to 30 inches apart in rows three to four feet apart. Daughter (runners) plants are allowed to root freely to become a matted row no wider then two feet.
• Spaced Row Systems limit the number of daughter plants that grow from the mother plant. The mother plants are set 18 to 30 inches apart in rows three to four inches apart. All other runners are pulled or cut from the mother plants. Even though more care is needed under this system, advantages include higher yields, larger berries and fewer disease problems.
• The Hill System is the best system for growing day neutral and everbearing strawberries. In this system all the runners are removed so only the original mother plants remains. Removing the runners causes the mother plant to develop more crowns and flower stalks. Multiple rows are arranged in groups of two, three or four plants with a two- foot walkway between each group of rows. During the first two or three weeks of growth, the planting should be weeded;. After that the bed should be mulched.

Keeping New Strawberry Plants Safe;

• Strawberries prefer well drained soil, high in organic matter. They need full sun for the highest yields, at least six hours per day.
• Strawberries are very susceptible to frost in the spring. Mulches that have covered the plants during the winter months should be removed to the aisles to be used if a frost is predicted. Before the temperature drops in the fall you should apply a three to four inch layer over the rows. Leave some of the mulch around the plants in the spring to keep the fruit from soil contact and to conserve soil moisture.
• Strawberries should not be planted where peppers, tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes have been grown. These plants could harbor verticillium wilt, a serious strawberry disease. Strawberries need about one inch of water per weed during the growing season.
  v The most common root-feeding pests of strawberries in New York State includes the strawberry crown borer, Tyloderma fragariae, the strawberry root weevil,, Otiorhynchus ovatus, and white grubs in the genus Phyllophaga.

More information on these root-feeding pests is available on line at:

Strawberry Crown Bore

Strawberry Root Weevil

White Grub

Or at the Cornell University Web Site

You are now ready to start on your delicious gardening journey. For more information on raising strawberries, contact a Steuben County Master Gardener at 607-664-2307. Master Gardeners are available in the in Cornell Cooperative Extension of Steuben County Office, Tuesdays and Thursdays, From 10 am to 2 pm 3 E. Pulteney Square in Bath New York.

 Peonies

Peonies

By Joan Tichenor, Master Gardener

Ever wonder what those large, showy flowers that appear in the early spring are? Your neighbors all have them and you don’t. Let’s learn a little more about peonies and then you can decide if you would like to add them to your home’s landscape.

Peonies are perennial favorites in the flower garden. Their large, exquisite blossoms, most of which are fragrant, make excellent cut flowers. Their foliage provide beautiful backgrounds for annuals or other perennials.

The large showy peony flowers are produced in mid to late spring. They come in many colors and shapes. Because winter chilling is required for dormancy, peonies often do not perform well in the lower southern states. Early blooming and single or Japanese cultivars generally perform better in the northern states

The Garden Peony usually has a growth of 0.5 – 1.5 meters tall. The Tree Peony can reach up to 3 meters tall. They both have compound, deeply lobed leaves, and large, often fragrant flowers, ranging from red to white or yellow, but never blue.

Although peonies are long lived, they are slow growing at first. Garden peonies will usually begin blooming within three years after planting. Tree peonies will begin blooming at about the same time, but will increase more slowly in size and flower quantity. They can live for up to 100 years.

Peonies are used as specimens in borders and herbaceous hedges and are excellent cut flowers. Herbaceous peonies need at least six hours of sun a day for good blooms. Afternoon shade will protect flowers from fading too quickly in hot areas. Tree peonies should always have dappled or afternoon shade since the large, silky petals are damaged by excessive sun.

GROWING PEONIES

Soil:

Peonies are long lived in the garden and are worth the extra trouble and time at planting. They have few pest problems and can remain healthy for many years. For a good growth of peonies, well drained , loamy soil is best. Good drainage is vital to avoid root rot and fungal diseases. If your soil is made up of heavy clay, you need to check the drainage and organic matter content. Adding organic matter, such as compost, will increase drainage and improve soil health. Peonies prefer pH of 6.5 to 7.5.. You may need to add lime to your soil to raise the pH for best growth.

Time To Plant:

Fall planting is best. Dig a hole 12 to 18 inches deep and 12 inches wide.
Replace part of the soil in the form of a cone and spread the roots over it. Set the roots so that the tip of the eyes (swollen pink or reddish buds) will be no deeper than one inch below the surface of the soil. Most failures to bloom are caused by deep planting.

Tree peonies should also be planted in the fall. The graft union should be an inch below ground level. Mound extra soil up around them for the first winter. Firm the soil well around the roots, eliminating pockets of air. Water thoroughly.

Decline in flower production, usually indicates overcrowding. If you want to divide or move your peonies, do so in late September or early October. Carefully lift the clump and wash away the soil to expose the eyes. Using a clean, sharp tool, divide the clump into sections, each with three to five eyes and good roots. Replant immediately.

Water:

Water peonies thoroughly and deeply once every 10 to 14 days. Deep watering will encourage deep rooting. Once established, peonies are very drought-resistant..

Fertilizer:

Apply a low nitrogen complete fertilizer such as 5-10-5 at the rate of 2 pounds per square foot, if you want to divide or move them in the spring when the stems are about two or three inches high. Well rotted manure may be used to improve the soil if it is applied to the soil surface in a one to two inch layer. Never let fertilizer or manure touch the stems of the plant.

Care:

When you work around the plants in the early spring, be careful of the tender emerging shoots. They usually are dark red. Remove the seed heads after flowering is finished to allow the plant to store more energy for next year’s blooms. In the fall, after frost, cut back the dead stems down to the soil surface. This is very important if you have any disease problems. Discard the stems. They should not be use in the compost pile. If put in compost the will spread diseases to other plants. Never cut back tree peonies. They are shrubs and will not grow back if cut down.

Most peonies need support to prevent the stems from flopping under the weight of their flowers. I suggest you use four stakes and an old pair of panty hose to tie to the stakes to support the plant. Hoops are available for this purpose.

When you choose peonies for use as cut flowers, pick flowers in the soft bud stage. They should feel like soft marshmallows. Leave at least three leaves per stem on the plant. Re-cut the stems under warm water and strip off any leaves that would contact water in the vase. The flowers should open within a day of being put in vase.

PROBLEMS AND DISEASES

Peonies have few pests or diseases. Most frequent occurring problems are the fungal diseases Botrytis blight and leaf blotch. The only insect pests of any consequence on peonies are scales and Japanese beetles. “But, what about ants,” you may ask. Ants are attracted to peonies because of the sweet sap the flower buds secrete. There goes another myth. No, peonies do not need ants to open their buds.

Botrytis Fungus

This disease can appear at any time of the growing season, but is most common in cloudy, rainy weather. It begins early in the spring when the shoots are about six inches tall. Young stalks discolor at the base, wilt and fall over. This wilt and shoot death may continue through the summer if conditions are wet. Other symptoms during the growing season include large, irregularly shaped spots on leaves and brown flower buds that are covered with a mass of gray, fuzzy fungal spores. The fuzzy fungal spores, produced after rain or watering are characteristic of Botrytis infection.

Leaf Blotch

Several fungal organisms are capable of causing blotches in varying sizes and colors on peonies. Most infections occur when the plant is still young, the leaf and stem tissues are very succulent. Leaf and stem blotch, may be controlled, by removing old top material in the fall, cutting the stems at ground level and destroying those parts.

Virus Disease

Peonies often have several virus diseases, including ring spots, mosaic, leaf curl and crown elongation. Viruses may cause patterns of dark and light green on the leaves, stunting, leaf curl or just reduction in vigor. Virus infected peonies may grow and bloom normally except for the strange patterns on the leaves or other subtle symptoms. No treatment is found to help cure a virus infected peony. If symptoms are severe, and growth and flowering is greatly reduced the plant should be removed and discarded.

Failure To Bloom:

A common problem of peonies is the failure to bloom. It may be the result of planting too deep, immature plants, excess nitrogen, inadequate sunlight, overcrowding, nutrient deficiency, insects or disease problems, competition from roots of nearby plants or late freezes. Some cultivars will fail to bloom in southern zones because they lack sufficient winter chilling.

Now that you have the A to Z’s about growing peonies at your finger tips, you, too, can have a showcase landscape around your home that will make passers by watching with envy. The Cornell Cooperative Extension Master Gardener will be on hand to help you through the process. We’re just a phone call away at 607-664-2300.

 Fall Cleaning

Fall Cleaning...For Your Garden

This article was compiled by Master Gardener, Joan Tichenor, and Horticulture Community Educator, Stephanie Mehlenbacher from Cornell Cooperative Extension in Steuben County.

Is your garden bright green, full of flowers and bees buzzing? Or is it fading, with flowers, bees and butterflies missing and the green turning to a dull brown? Hopefully you realize this means it is time to winterize your garden. It is especially important here in our harsh northern climates to start preparing your plants to overwinter.

When to winterize your garden?

Many gardeners get anxious to put the garden to bed. They often rush, or
over-look it completely. This is not a good idea. For example, many gardeners mulch their roses before the ground has frozen. This makes the ground stay warmer which allows the roses to grow into early winter. Then they are more likely to be winter killed. Once the ground has frozen, then it is time to hill the roses or mulch them.

Annuals

As you are pulling things out of your garden, without looking closely? Don’t be hasty when it comes to your heirloom annuals. Before you yank them, make sure you collect the seeds, which are good for next year’s garden. Put the seeds into labeled envelopes and place in a container where it is dark and cool.

Perennials

Be sure to cut back perennials, don’t yank them out. Once the ground freezes, add a thick layer of mulch, about 12 inches deep. If any plants are still blooming at this time, wait until they die before cutting them back and mulching.

Vegetable Garden

When it comes to your vegetable garden, especially the vine vegetables, it is important to clean them up, since animals like to make their winter homes in the foliage.
After clean up, let your garden air dry for at least a week. Mark the areas where any perennial vegetable plants are starting that you plan to move in the spring. Make a rough sketch of your garden so you are ready when planting season comes again. After the week of air drying, you can spread a layer of compost and possibly a layer of loose mulch. You can also use a cover crop in your garden. Using leaves is okay, but a better option may be straw or hay. Leaves tend to mat down and smother the plants when the spring thaw comes.

Mulch

What is Mulch? Mulch is made up of coarse particles of organic material, like wood chips, leaves, straw, or compost. It is added straight onto the soil in a layer between two and four inches thick.

What is Mulch good for?

• Mulch retains moisture in the soil. It prevents evaporation by shielding the soil from the sun and reduces water run off during rain or watering.
• Mulch will stop most weeds from growing, and you will find it easier to remove those that do. It will cut down on the time you spend watering.
• Most importantly, mulch will improve sandy and clay soils by adding organic matter and encouraging earthworms. Mulch can also be great in some areas of the garden as an alternative to long watering sessions.
• Mulch does not keep the soil warm, but keeps the temperatures around your plants regulated. This keeps the plants from heaving in an early thaw followed by a freeze. It also keeps the plants from starting to grow too early in the spring. Layer mulch around shallow rooted plants after the ground freezes. Avoid putting mulch directly against tree trunks or crowns which can cause rot. Remember, mice like straw or hay for their winter nests. If the rodents are encouraged by the habitat around your plants it could lead to increased plant damage.

Home Composting

Now that your gardens are clean there is probably a big pile of plant material that has been removed. What should you do with that? – It depends!

• Any plants that looked diseased or plagued with insects should be discarded into a separate pile. This pile should be placed as far away from any garden space on your property as possible. DO NOT compost this material in your home compost pile or bin. Most home composting does not get hot enough to kill most diseases. Also, avoid composting weeds if the finished compost is being returned to the same gardens. Weed seeds usually survive the composting process in most home composting systems.
• Anything that was once alive is compostable, however we do not recommend placing bones, fat or fatty foods, fish, grease, or meat scraps in the compost! The most common ingredients for home composting include leaves, grass clippings, manure, straw, hay, and of course plant refuse from the garden and kitchen.
• Also, DO NOT add pet waste to compost. Check grass clippings before placing them in the compost.

How to Use the Compost:

• Compost can improve soil structure and nutrient value. It can be used in flower beds or gardens, planter boxes, or even houseplant containers or as topdressing for lawns. It is not recommended to use compost as a seed starting mix. This increases the chance of introducing disease to vulnerable seedlings.
• There are several different types of compost bins from the basic compost pile to many different compost bins. There are holding units that remain stationary, which is the least labor intensive, but does not produce as high of quality compost as the others. The turning units actually turn or rotate the compost to usually produce a higher quality finished compost.

The most common composting problems and their solutions!

• If your compost has a bad odor: The compost is not receiving enough air throughout the pile so increase the amount of turning.
• If the center of the compost pile is dry: The compost needs water to remain active. Moisten the pile or bin while turning.
• If the compost is damp & warm in the center, but not throughout the pile: The pile or bin may be too small. You can collect more material and mix.
• If the pile is damp & sweet smelling but doesn’t reach temperature: This is usually a lack of nitrogen. Mix in nitrogen sources such as fresh grass clippings or manure.

Working a fall garden project is a great excuse to be outside enjoying the last weeks of nice weather. The hard work will pay off next spring, when once again your garden is bright green, full of flowers and bees buzzing.

 Flowering Bulbs

The Culture of Spring - Flowering Bulbs

By Tom Kowalsick, Extension Educator, Suffolk County

The Steuben County Master Gardeners are a volunteer group. The group helps disburse unbiased, research-based knowledge about gardening and garden pests. We are available all season to help answer questions about your yard and garden. Call 607-664-2307 or visit us in the county office building in Bath.

Hardy bulbs exceed all other groups of plants in producing color in the spring garden. For the most part they are the earliest plants to bloom, and many have exceptionally showy flowers. The gardening season begins with the snowdrops and winter aconites, usually in early March. These are soon followed by crocuses, scillas, and chionodoxas; then come the hyacinths, daffodils, and tulips. Bulbs are also a most versatile group of plants; there is a type for any location. Attractive mass plantings can be made in solid beds, to be followed in June by annuals. Groupings can be spotted about in a perennial border or rock garden. Bulbs are attractive along paths and walks, planted around pools, or placed in front of foundation plantings around the home. Most spring bulbs, with the exception of tulips, can also be effectively naturalized.

Site
Most bulbs do well the first year regardless of where they are planted. Very few do well for several years unless they have a fair amount of light and generally favorable growing conditions. Planting bulbs beneath large trees is seldom satisfactory because of the dense shade cast by the trees and the competition with tree roots. Scilla sibirica crocus, winter aconite, and snowdrop (Galanthus) however, give satisfactory performance under trees.
Very few of the hardy, spring-flowerings bulbs tolerate wet, soggy soil conditions during the winter. Plant them in a situation where there is good drainage and where there is no danger of water standing on the surface of the ground through the winter or spring. Camassia is an exception and does well in wet, almost swampy places. It is imperative to plant the so-called botanical or species tulips and narcissi in areas with perfect drainage, where it is dry and sunny during the summer.

Soil Preparation
In most spring-flowering bulbs the buds are already formed at the time the bulbs are planted in the fall. The soil must be prepared well if the bulbs are to remain in vigorous condition for several years. Fertilizer added to the soil before the bulbs are planted increases growth. The improvement in growth is not evident until the second year when the bulbs that were fertilized at planting maintain vigorous growth and large flower size, whereas those not fertilized tend to become smaller and poorer in quality. The best fertilizer is a complete commercial one such as 5-10-5 or 5-10-10, applied at the rate of 1 pound to 100 square feet of surface area.
Work it thoroughly into the top 4-6 inches of soil. After bulbs are established, increase fertilizer applications to 2 pounds per 100 square feet when the bulbs are in bloom. Avoid fertilizer contact with bulb foliage and scratch the fertilizer into the upper inch of soil. Organic matter can be added to "heavy" soils to improve their physical structure. It is applied at the rate of 3 bushels per 100 square feet and worked into the top 8 inches of soil. Manure can also be a source of organic matter. It should be well rotted, for fresh manure may injure the bulbs. Do not exceed 2 bushels for each 100 square feet.

Planting
In some localities where the soil is light and sandy, bulbs can be planted by the dibble method. Make a small hole in the soil with a short-pointed stick, place the bulb in the soil, and, after pressing the bulb down into the soil as far as possible, cover it with soil. In heavy soils, use a trowel to dig the hole for each bulb. The soil underneath the bulb should be loose so that the roots can easily penetrate the soil.
Time of Planting
October is the best month to plant all the spring-flowering bulbs. Tulips show some reduction in size of bulb and length of stem when planted after December 1, but any time before December 15 is reasonably satisfactory for them.

Depth of Planting
The depth at which to plant bulbs is important. The best depth to plant tulips and narcissi is with the tops of the bulbs 5 inches below the surface of the soil. For narcissi and daffodils, the depth of planting makes considerable difference to the future growth of the bulb, but tulips are somewhat more tolerant of unfavorable depths. In light sandy soils, plant tulips deeper than in heavy soils. Plant smaller bulbs with their tops about 2 inches below the surface of the soil. In this group are scillas, chionodoxas, grape hyacinths, snowdrops, and any of the others that have a diameter of 1 inch or less. As a rule, the depth of soil above the top of the bulb should be about twice the diameter of the bulb.

Spacing
Plant the larger growing bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, about 8 inches apart. This gives the bulbs space for 2 or 3 years' growth before they must be dug up and divided. Plant crocus and grape hyacinths about 4 inches apart. Some of the smaller bulbs, such as winter aconites and scillas, should be placed from 2 to 3 inches apart. If you make a naturalized planting, place narcissi at least 10 inches apart and set the small bulbs about 20 to a square foot. Grape hyacinths, scillas, chionodoxas, snowdrops, and other small bulbs are much more effective planted in mass rather than individually.

Rodents
Precautions should be taken to prevent rodents from feeding on the bulbs. When the bulbs are planted in beds, cover the beds with fine mesh wire to prevent mice from digging out the bulbs. Certain repellent materials available at garden centers, can be used. As a rule, place a small handful of the repellent around the bulb at the time of planting.

Growth
Other practices besides planting affect the growth and development of bulbs over a period of years. The removal of seed pods is important. When the pods are left on tulips and narcissi, the new bulbs are much smaller than when the pods are removed.
Removing the leaves has just the opposite effect. The more leaves removed from the bulbs when the flowers are cut, the smaller are the new bulbs produced. If the two lower leaves of tulips are left on, the new bulbs produced are practically normal in weight. Narcissi require from 4 to 6 leaves to produce normal-sized bulbs.

Let the leaves remain on the spring-flowering bulbs until they show signs of ripening and turning yellow. Tulip bulbs usually reach their full development about June 15. Narcissi complete their development about the middle of July. Other types of bulbs vary greatly in the date at which they mature. Cut off the foliage of the bulbs at the ground level when it is fully mature. Remove it from the garden and discard it.

Failure to Bloom
Old established clumps of bulbs may not produce flowers because they are overgrown and the bulbs have become too crowded. Correct this by digging, separating, then resetting the bulbs. If bulbs are dug too soon after flowering, before they mature, no flowers will develop the next season; but if the bulbs are left in place, they will flower the second year.

Digging
After several years in the ground, both daffodils and tulips form a clump of multiple bulbs, resulting in a gradual decline in stem length and flower size. Daffodils grow many years before the clumps need dividing. Tulips decline sooner and may benefit by digging the clumps and dividing the bulbs every several years. If the bulbs have declined sharply, it may be better to discard them and start again with new ones. Tulips rarely show as well after the first year.
In the years bulbs are to be dug, allow them to mature as long as possible. Around the last of June or the middle of July, when the foliage turns yellow, lift the bulbs carefully, free them from soil, and remove the tops. The bulbs can be divided and replanted immediately. Otherwise, wash the soil from the bulbs with a hose and then spread them out in a shady, airy place to allow the surface to dry thoroughly. Then place them in shallow boxes and store them in a cool, dry, airy place. They will be ready to plant in the fall. Grade the bulbs, for many of the smaller ones will not produce flowers the following year. Plant only the large bulbs in beds or borders. The smaller ones can be planted in rows in a nursery bed and allowed to develop. They will usually form flowering-size bulbs in 2 years.

Reprinted from: The Culture of Spring-flowering Bulbs, by R.E. Lee, Professor Emeritus and R.E. Kozlowski, Department of Floriculture and Ornamental Horticulture, Cornell University, 9/86. This publication replaces Cornell Extension Bulletin 896.

 O Christmas Tree

By Stephanie Mehlenbacher, Community Educator

The Steuben County Master Gardeners are a volunteer group. The group helps disburse unbiased, research-based knowledge about gardening and garden pests. We are available all season to help answer questions about your yard and garden. Call 607-664-2307 or visit us in the county office building in Bath.

The history of the Christmas tree and the many uses of evergreens.

As you are decorating your tree for the holidays, or peering out the window through some wintery weather, we would like you to appreciate that evergreens can be useful in many different ways.
Evergreens have been used many different ways for several years. Plants and trees that remained green all year had a special meaning for people in the winter, even in early civilization. It is reported that ancient peoples hung evergreen boughs over their doors and windows. Germany is credited with starting the Christmas tree tradition as we now know it. It is a widely held belief that Martin Luther first added lighted candles to a tree.
The first record of a Christmas tree in America was in the mid 1800’s by the German settlers in Pennsylvania. At first, Christmas trees were not widely accepted by early Americans. However, in 1846 Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were pictured with their family around a Christmas tree. Due to the popularity of the Queen of England, Christmas trees soon became fashionable not only in England, but throughout much of the American settlements.
There are several benefits of using evergreen trees and shrubs in the landscape. Trees including evergreens help make neighborhoods more livable and help foster a sense of community. One study has shown that there is a positive correlation between the presence of trees in one’s life and a reduction in stress symptoms. Another study indicates that after neighborhood street trees are planted crime levels decrease.
Not only do trees benefit neighborhoods, but evergreens can improve the environment and your bottom line! Trees including evergreens can “clean up” their surrounding environment. One study shows that hydrocarbons and other organic chemicals in the air are taken up by leaves and metabolized into benign compounds. Maybe one of the most important contributions is that trees remove carbon dioxide from circulation and store it as wood. This removes carbon dioxide (a greenhouse gas) which contributes to global warming.
Also, strategic planting of trees, especially evergreens, may reduce energy costs of your home. Evergreens can serve as a windbreak on the western exposure of your home – reducing heating costs in the winter months! Furthermore, trees have been shown to increase real estate values by up to 20%! One other benefit includes the attraction of wildlife to your landscape. If you provide enough cover and food, birds and other wildlife will soon visit your landscape.

Here’s some help identifying which tree you are purchasing this season. Most people do not realize what type of conifer they purchase during the holiday season. Other’s just asked the person that had cut the tree for them. But, if you choose and cut your tree yourself these tips may be helpful!
1. If the needles are attached to the branch singly and the needles are four-sided, you are purchasing a spruce.
2. If the needles are attached to the branch singly and the needles are flat with a rounded tip, the tree you are purchasing is a fir.
3. Trees with needles attached to the branch in clusters of 2 or 5 are pine trees.
How to care for your newly cut tree:
In order to avoid fire hazards and a mess of needles on your floor, follow these tips

1. When you first bring your tree home, stand it in a bucket of water in a cool place that is protected from sun and wind until you are ready to place the tree indoors.
2. Obtain a fresh tree. When you bring the tree inside make a fresh cut at least 1 inch above the old cut. The smoother and cleaner the cut the better the tree can absorb water. * Lukewarm water is taken up more readily than cold water.
3. Do NOT locate the tree near sources of heat. You may also want to place a humidifier near the tree. The lower the temperature and higher the humidity the longer your cut tree will last!
4. Replenish the water in the stand daily. Use lukewarm water. Never let the water level in the stand fall below the cut end of the trunk or a seal of dried sap will form at the base of the trunk (in as little as 4-6 hours). The seal will prevent the tree from absorbing water. A fresh cut can remove the seal, but can be difficult with a decorated tree.
We hope that you will enjoy the holiday season with your traditions. Maybe a Christmas tree is a tradition in your family. If so, following these steps will help you choose a beautiful tree and will keep your cut tree well maintained and safe.
Evergreens have been important to many cultures for centuries. Americans continue to follow that tradition today. Other countries around the world have different traditions during the holidays. In England the Norway spruce is the most popular Christmas tree. Greenland has to import the trees they use at Christmas time. Other countries such as Saudi Arabia, China, and South Africa do not celebrate Christmas with a tree (for the most part).
So, remember, when you purchase your Christmas tree this year, maybe you could also plant a tree in your landscape. It not only helps the environment, but creates habitat for wildlife, and could possibly increase your property value or may just help you sell that house you have been trying to get rid of. Evergreens are so important to our culture, environment, and well being. We hope you now have an appreciation for conifers and their uses.
Enjoy this easy craft “clay” to make holiday ornaments! I know my family has had fun with it!
To make mix together:
2 cups flour 2 cups water
2 cups salt 2 Tablespoons cream of tartar
2 Tablespoons cooking oil
Heat this mixture over medium heat, stirring constantly for one or two minutes. This mixture will start to clump immediately, but keep stirring. Remove from heat when it reaches a dough-like consistency. If it gets too dry, add more water or cooking oil. Let the mixture cool until it can be handled. Knead it well until it’s smooth. Divide dough into separate plastic bags. Add food coloring and knead it well inside the bag to get an even color. Use the cookie cutters to make homemade ornaments. Make sure you use a pencil tip to poke a hole to hang the ornament! Then let the pieces dry completely.

This article is submitted by Stephanie Mehlenbacher, Horticulture Community Educator with the Steuben County Cornell Cooperative Extension, in Bath, New York. For more information contact Cornell Cooperative Extension in Steuben County at 607-664-2300 or visit www.putknowledgetowork.com!

 Snowflakes, Santa and...Seed Catalogs?

By Stephanie Mehlenbacher, Community Educator

The Steuben County Master Gardeners are a volunteer group. The group helps disburse unbiased, research-based knowledge about gardening and garden pests. We are available all season to help answer questions about your yard and garden. Call 607-664-2307 or visit us in the county office building in Bath.

If you haven’t already, you will soon be flooded with seed catalogs. Many gardeners (and I confess I fit in this category) look forward to this every year! I usually get to enjoy spending some time in the warmth of my home looking through the catalogs. This year, however, it seems I have no time to even get what I need to done! So, this is my recommendation to the busy gardener!
Plan, plan, plan!
First and foremost you need to plan! Take a look at your existing gardens. Are there open spaces from some plants that didn’t work out? If so, what went wrong? Is the area too dry or very wet? Is the spot shaded or in full sun? Ask yourself what kind of soil is in the garden. These and other questions can help you to narrow down your search for that perfect plant. Maybe you are starting a whole new garden. Still, you need to ask yourself the same questions. You also have to ask yourself what size garden would suit your needs. Maybe you want to plant a vegetable garden that requires at least 6 hours of sunlight for plants like tomatoes and peppers. Or, are you interested in the cottage garden look? In that case, maybe a little more research into appropriate plants is in order. Many gardeners prefer seeing what they are planning. A sketch of the area may need to be completed in that case. Basically, it boils down to:
What is my objective with this garden?
What are the lighting conditions?
What is the soil type?
What plants suit this space?
If you can fully answer these questions, then you are ready to continue!
Look to the resources.
Now you can start to pick and choose from the millions of plants available. This is where every gardener starts to go overboard until they look at their budget. Here are some helpful resources to speed up the search. Cornell University creates a list each year titled: Selected List of Vegetable Varieties for Gardeners in New York State. This list is fantastic. It looks at new plants from the previous year and describes the best suited for New York State gardens. The 2008 list is now available online at http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/vegetables/vegvar.pdf , or you can contact your local extension office.
If you are looking for information on where to purchase specific varieties, you may want to consider visiting http://vegvariety.cce.cornell.edu. This website compiles information from fellow gardeners to help you in your decision making process. It lets you view other gardener’s ratings or you can rate a vegetable variety yourself. There are over 5,000 varieties rated. Or, have you heard of a specific variety that you just have to have, but don’t know where to find it. This is the site you need. You can look up a vegetable variety and find all of the places that sell that seed or plant.
Understand the Lingo!
Seed catalogs are great about providing beautiful pictures to brighten up wintery days. However, a true gardener needs to look beyond the pictures to the cold hard facts. And that means understanding the terminology in the catalogs.
Days to Maturity: The time from the date of planting or transplanting until you can expect your first ripe fruit.
Disease Resistance: The ability of an organism to exclude or overcome, completely or in some degree, the effect of a pathogen or other damaging factor.
Disease Tolerance: The ability of a plant to sustain the effects of a disease without dying or suffering serious injury or crop loss.
Hybrid: The offspring of two individuals differing in one or more heritable characteristics.
Open-pollinated: This means what it sounds like. Pollination occurs through natural mechanisms. However, because breeding is uncontrolled and the pollen source is unknown open-pollination results in plants that vary widely in genetic traits.
Order Early!
Most Catalogs urge gardeners to order seeds as early as possible. This ensures that you are able to get the seed you want and gets the seed to your doorstep way ahead of planting time. Some catalogs even offer incentives or giveaways if you order early. In order to keep the seed fresh until you are ready to plant (and around here it may not be until May) store your seed in an airtight container in a low humidity and low temperature environment. However, Peas and beans will do just fine with some air flow. There is no need to store seeds in the freezer because it does not extend the life of the seed and it may even harm some of the more tender seeds. One option is storing the seed in the basement or unheated garage in an airtight container (most plastics are not truly airtight!).
It’s Ok to Dream.
I know I enjoy looking through the colorful seed catalogs on bitter cold winter days. Something about the array of vibrant colors and beautiful photography lifts my spirits. Most gardeners I have talked to agree. Even though you may not have time now and want to order early, remember to take the time later on to enjoy the catalogs. After all gardening is supposed to be enjoyable! And all gardeners dream of the perfect garden!

Even though the busy gardener may not have the time to peruse the many stacks of seed catalogs headed our way, take the time later on to appreciate the new plant releases and vibrant colors of each catalog.
This article is submitted by Stephanie Mehlenbacher, Horticulture Community Educator with the Steuben County Cornell Cooperative Extension, in Bath, New York. For more information contact Cornell Cooperative Extension in Steuben County at 607-664-2300 or visit www.putknowledgetowork.com!

 March Madness: Gardener Style!

By Stephanie Mehlenbacher, Community Educator

This is the time of year that most sports enthusiasts start to talk about March Madness: which college basketball team is going to perform that big upset, which team is going to go all -the -way. As a gardener, I think of something totally different when the phrase “March Madness” is spoken. On top of the planning, seed starting, and other preparation for the new season are all of the flower and garden shows that occur throughout the Northeast in the month of March! Wow, a gardener could run themselves ragged trying to get to all of the shows! Now that is exciting! What a great time of year to visit live gardens full of beautiful colors and smells. If you need ideas for a planting you have been planning these are the places you need to see! The following are descriptions of some of the shows in the Northeast and New York.

CNY Blooms
Central New York Blooms (CNY Blooms) is the name of the Syracuse Flower and Garden Show. It is presented by the New York State Nursery and Landscape Association, Inc. at the Convention Center at the Oncenter in Syracuse NY. The show boasts 10-12 competition gardens with participation from local colleges and garden clubs. Local landscape and nursery companies will have exhibits on the materials they sell as well. This is a great opportunity to ask those questions you have always wanted to but haven’t. Not only do nurserymen and landscapers use plant material to create the effect they desire, but several will use hardscaping as well. Several horticultural seminars and presentations will take place every day. Some of the seminars include Creating a Colorful Garden, Ten Least Wanted: Invasive Plants in Central NY, Soil Testing: An Excellent Investment for Garden Plants & Commercial Crops, and Raised Patios. The show starts February 27th at 7:00 pm with a preview party and continues through the weekend and finishes Sunday March 2nd at 4:00. Tickets start at $9 and a weekend pass goes for $20 with children 12 years and under free. I suggest checking out the website http://www.cnyblooms.com for more details and to get your $1.00 off coupon!

Gardenscape 2008
Gardenscape 2008, in Rochester NY, is presented by the GardenScape Professionals Association, a not-for-profit organization. This will mark Gardenscape’s 17th year as one of the area’s top flower and garden shows. The 2008 Theme “It’s a Garden Life” sets the stage for the show. Through the display gardens, exhibitors will demonstrate ways for people to enjoy living in their outdoor spaces. The Monroe County Fair and Expo Center (the Dome Center) will be filled with display gardens and landscapes, over 80 vendors, special events, and daily seminars presented by gardening experts! The show runs March 13th-16th 2008 from 9 am until 9 pm except Sunday March 16th runs from 9 am until 5 pm! Hourly seminars will be held from 11 am until 4pm daily with speakers including Bruce Zaretsky, an exhibitor with award-winning gardens at over ten Gardenscape Shows and has worked in the landscape design and construction field for over 25 years, and JoAnn Gardner, author of “Herbs in Bloom” and “The Heirloom Flower Gardens” as well as many more. JoAnn has also contributed to publications such as Horticulture and Garden Design Magazine There are also several special events to choose from if you wish. These include the preview party, “A Taste of Spring”, on Wednesday March 12th from 5:30-8:00pm, and the “Masquerade Ball” Friday March 14th from 8:30 until midnight! Tickets can be purchased at select local florists, from Wegmans”That’s the Ticket” and at the door. Prices range from $12 per adult at the door for one day to $50 for the Preview Party dinner. Children ages 15 and under are free! For more information check out http://www.rochesterflowershow.com or contact Bob Kretzer, Show Manager, at (585)265-9018.

2008 Philadelphia Flower Show
The Theme for the 2008 Philadelphia Flower Show is “Jazz It Up”! Inspirations from the Roaring ‘20s and New Orleans’ French Quarter will help create “jazzed up” versions of New Orleans’ courtyards, cast iron balconies, and much more. Not only will you be tantalized by the sights, but jazz music will fill the air tapping into all of your senses. The Pennsylvania Convention Center will transform into a southern jazz paradise from March 2nd through the 9th. With over 2,000 entries from growers and horticulturalists in 580 artistic and horticultural classes the public will have plenty to see. The Show is not lacking in the education department either with hundreds of presentations taking place throughout the week on topics ranging from flower arranging to organic gardening. If you are in the mood for shopping, don’t worry; the show has that covered as well. The Marketplace includes over 150 vendors from across the US and other countries. Some of the products you will find include plants, flowers, sheds, furniture, artwork, food, and garden related crafts and supplies. Individual tickets range from $13 (for children 2-16 years old) to $28 (for adults on opening day). Check out the website http://www.theflowershow.com for more information or to order tickets. Student tickets are also available.

Other Shows in the Area
Other shows are also slated for the March calendar. These include the annual Orchid Show at Sonnenberg Gardens March 7th-9th. I suggest you contact Sonnenberg Gardens at (585)394-4922 for more information. Also, the Capital District Flower and Garden Show is being held March 28th through the 30th at the Hudson Valley Community College in Troy NY. Again, please contact Northeast Show Promoters, Inc. directly at (518) 786-1529, or visit the website at http://www.gardenandflowershow.com .

As a gardener I look forward to the month of March each year. Not only am I elbow deep in potting mix, but my head is swimming with ideas for the next garden I want to plant. These flower and garden shows help me see new plant releases and creative design concepts before I need to start digging in the soil. And with the winter seeming to drag on forever I don’t know of anyone who wouldn’t want a taste of spring a little early!